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FALL 2007 NEWSLETTER
 
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tFact
 
“Warm water is best for cleaning and cool water for rinsing,” says Gregory Papadeas, D.O., a dermatologist in the Denver area.  Cooler water doesn’t remove as much oil.  And blot yourself dry rather than rubbing.  Too much friction fractures skin cells.
 
SUPER SOAKS
Emollients
The omega-3’s of the beauty world, emollients are super nutritious fats for your skin.  They keep the lipid matrix of the cells looking like a bodybuilder – oiled and strong.  Scan the list for glycerol stearate, lanolin, shea butter, and soy sterols – they’re the most potent.  Found in Tzone’s Chamomile Cleanser, Limu Cleanser, D20 Heavy Mist, Advanced SPF 30, Self Tanner, and Matrix Booster.
 
Humectants
The moisture your skin needs hangs out in the lower layers of your epidermis.  Humectants suck it to the surface to keep your upper layers juicy.  The ones that suck the most:  glycerin, glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), hyaluronic acid, lactic acid, sorbitol, and urea.  Found in Tzone’s Complex C Serum, Restorative Marine Creme, Glycolic Gel, Matrix Booster, Rapid Response and Super Firming Creme.
 
Occlusives
You want to treat moisture like good guacamole leftovers:  Seal it up so you can enjoy it longer.  That’s what occlusives do.  Petrolatum is the most efficient, but it can feel greasy.  Two strong moisture-trappers that aren’t heavy:  caprylic triglyceride and dimethicone.  Found in Tzone’s Advanced Lightening Creme, Vitamin C Creme, and Self Tanner.
 
“The belief that drinking water is good for your skin is probably the biggest myth going,” says Jeffrey Dover, M.D., associate professor of clinical dermatology at the Yale University School of Medicine. Drinking lots of fluid is good for your body, and it’s good for your kidneys.  But simply drinking water does little to benefit skin.”  Unless you’re truly dehydrated, water passes through the body too quickly to have much effect on the skin.
 
RESEARCH REVEALS THAT SIMPLY MOISTURIZING MORE OFTEN CAN CURE JUST ABOUT ANY SKIN ISSUE  ·
 
The news in dermatological circles involves a major shift in how to think about your skin and how to treat complexion crisis from acne to flakiness to rosacea.  In a nutshell, we focus too much on getting rid of the bad stuff rather than adding more of the good stuff.  New research reveals that simply moisturizing more often can cure just about any skin issue.
 
The Barrier Method.  This new way of treating unruly complexions begins with the skin’s number one job:  It’s our most powerful defense against dirt, pollution, allergens, germs, and sun damage, the outside factors that cause the majority of irritation and breakouts.  In short, skin performs what doctors call a “barrier function.”  Perhaps more important, our fragile flesh contains ingredients essential to keeping that outer layer healthy – namely, water and moisturizing fats called lipids.  Even if you’ve never seen a bump or a flake, it’s just a matter of time:  Our bodies produce fewer natural moisturizers as we age, and years of washing and stripping away moisture makes us more vulnerable to environmental damage from sun and pollution.  The defensive role of the skin is what’s got these researchers all hepped up, because scrubbing away surface oils only weakens the outer shield.  That’s why it’s crucial to fortify your body’s bodyguard with lots of TLC – usually in the form of moisture.
 
A well-hydrated surface is strong and feels supple – and gives you that dewy glow we all seek.
Think of your skin cells (called corneocytes) as bricks packed in mortar.  The mortar, known as the lipid matrix, is a complex blend of fats and oils manufactured by your body.  In healthy skin, the bricks sit snugly against one another.  The closer they are together, the more protected you are from outside assaults:  If your cells are tight, those skin-wrecking forces can’t get through to mess with your complexion.
 
“New research has helped us understand that you can improve many skin conditions just by repairing the skin’s ability to act as a barrier” says Dian Berson, M.D., assistant professor of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical College in New York City.  While retaining fluid may be bad news in a clingy dress, keeping your cells hydrated and pleasantly plump means they crowd together and bar irritants from entering.  Moisture also helps your body produce the lipids that keep your skin in one piece.  Scientists have learned that lipid imbalances, generally caused by overzealous washing, harsh chemicals, sun exposure, and the like are the main causes of major skin problems like psoriasis and atopic dermatitis (widespread regions of dry, itchy skin).
When your skin flares up with cracking, peeling, flaking, bumps, and even acne, you’ve got a barrier that’s in tatters – and you’re not alone.  Consider this:  An estimated 30 percent of us have dry skin, at least 50 percent have had acne, and another 20 percent have sensitive skin.  We're looking at a population of parched bodies.
 
“Once the barrier has been damaged, it creates a double whammy,” says Carl R. Thornfeldt, M.D., clinical associate professor of dermatology at Oregon Health & Science University.  First off, a weakened buffer makes standard wear and tear like pollution, sun and wind more taxing on your skin.  That can cause inflammation, a response to cellular injury that you’ll recognize by redness, heat, or swelling.  Second, Dr. Thornfeldt says, it allows nasty microbes in – and more than just the kind that can cause everything from acne to athlete’s foot.  In a startling piece of research, British scientists recently discovered a link between a ragged epidermis and breathing problems.  It turns out that allergens can enter the body via tiny fissures in the skin, starting a chain reaction that results in asthma.  “It would appear that nearly half of all asthma is associated with skin barrier defects,” says study co-author Colin Palmer, M.D., a molecular geneticist at the Biomedical Research Centre at the University of Dundee in England.
 
A Dirty Habit.   The good news:  Extra moisture can fortify a weak defense, reducing inflammation and irritation and helping your skin fight back.  Depending on how much water rehab you need, the right moisturizer could work in just one treatment.  More extreme cases can take weeks to heal and rebuild. 
 
Then there's the bathing question.  It makes sense that if you put water on your skin, some will sink in.  The problem is that when you add soap, you’re washing away not only grime but also the helpful stuff such as good oils, ceramides (lipids found in cell membranes), fatty acids, and cholesterols your skin needs.  "Soap always does what it’s supposed to do, which is get rid of grease and oil,” says Brian Adams, M.D., associate professor of dermatology at the University of Cincinnati College of Medicine, who specializes in athletes’ skin problems.  “But you need some of those oils.”  Women who work out are especially vulnerable, he says because they’re likely to take more than one shower a day.
 
Wait a sec.  Doesn’t thorough scrubbing get rid of disease-causing bacteria that wreak havoc?  The thing is, only a small percentage of the estimated 250 species of microorganisms that call our skin home are bad.  In research published in February, microbiologists at New York University School of Medicine reported that most of those skin-dwelling bugs are likely helping protect your hide and keeping it healthier by eating toxins and other evildoing bacteria.  They’re actually making your skin stronger.
 
Unfortunately, there isn’t an easy way to maintain the perfect balance between good and bad bacteria on your skin.  Too much washing can be just as problematic as too little, explains Leslie Baumann, M.D., professor of dermatology at the University of Miami Miller School of Medicine. 
Then, before you grab a towel or reach for a Q-tip, slather on some lotion.  Applying it while you’re still moist is ideal “because it traps water close to your skin,” Dr. Baumann says.  But if you want the strongest barrier possible, moisturizing just in the morning and at night may not be enough.  In very drying environments – your office in cold weather, say, or an airplane – Dr. Baumann is a big fan of misting your face with water two or three times a day and then reapplying moisturizer.
How do you know if your skin is thirsty?  It’s not rocket science:  Anytime you feel a tight or dry sensation, however slight, you need hydration.  And that varies between seasons and zip codes.  If you live in arid Arizona, for example, moisturizing three or four times a day wouldn’t be unreasonable.  But most of us can stay properly saturated with a morning and bedtime application – an extra coat when you wash your face after a workout.  (Dr. Dover also recommends buying a humidifier for your bedroom and running it while you sleep.  But check with your doctor first if you have sinus problems.)  During daylight hours, make sure your lotion contains an SPF of at least 15.  “Sun damage thins the epidermis, increasing the chances of water loss,” Dr. Baumann says.
 
Right about now you’re probably thinking the same thing we were after hearing all this moisturizing hype:  “But I have oily skin and breakouts.  I’m not about to slap greasy lotion all over my face.”  Truth is, this advice works for everyone.  “Even very oily skin can get dried out,” says Erin Welch, M.D., assistant professor of dermatology at the University of Texas Southwestern Medical School in Dallas.  That's why you can have hideous patches of scaly skin right on top of a major acne flare-up because there is no link between levels of oiliness and hydration, says Loretta Ciraldo, M.D.  Even so, acne does create an ugly catch-22 for your skin barrier.  First, it causes many women to go overboard with abrasive and irritating cleansers that chemically strip away vital lipids and physically tear up skin cells, says Hilary Baldwin, M.D., associate professor of dermatology at the SUNY Downstate Medical Center in Brooklyn.  This leads to microscopic cracking, which allows still more inflammation causing bacteria to get in.  Over-cleansing also provokes irritation, making patients more sensitive to medication.
 
The best way to understand why this happens is to think of a sponge:  When it’s dried out, the sponge won’t sop anything up because the membranes have hardened.  Similarly, as your skin dries out, the lipid matrix hardens and shrinks, and the cells pull away from one another, creating an open house for dirt and germs.  But add a little moisture and, the same way a sponge quickly soaks up that puddle of spilled latte, your skin will absorb healing acne products better.
At the end of the day, one simple law pretty much applies to everybody:  You should probably be washing less (with soap-free cleansers) and moisturizing more than you think. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Spring - 2006
T*facts
 
Your skin has over 8 feet of blood vessels per square inch.
 
There are 3,900,000 cells per square inch of skin.
 
On average, your epidermis (the outermost layer of skin regenerates every
27 days in your 20's and 30's and every 37 days for a 50 year old.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Spring/Summer Edition 2007
 
 
 
SKIN CANCER FACTS 
 
According to the American Cancer Society, over 1.1 million cases of skin cancer are diagnosed every year.  This makes it the most common cancer.  This epidemic led to the “slip, slop, slap” slogan for the Australian skin cancer prevention campaign: “slip on a shirt, slop on sun block, slap on a hat.”
 
The sun emits ultraviolet rays (UV) in three wavelengths (UVA, UVB, and UVC).  UVA accounts for 95% of all ultraviolet energy.  UVA penetrates deep into the skin and causes a weakening of the skin’s immune system and loss of skin elasticity or tone.  These changes lead to skin cancer and irreversible aging.  UVA does not cause reddening or pain and is present continuously throughout the day.  UVA can penetrate glass, thin clothing, and it is even present indoors!
 
UVB causes damage to the superficial skin layers which results in sunburn, skin discoloration and blotchy pigment changes.  UVB has its strongest penetration between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.  UVC never reaches the earth.
 
Sunscreens that protect against UVB are measured by a sun protection factor (SPF).  SPF is a multiplier of the time it takes to burn.  For example, someone who would typically burn after 12 minutes without sunscreen would last 120 minutes with an SPF 10 and 360 minutes with an SPF 30.  It is important to never use anything less than an SPF 15.  SPF 30 is considered maximal protection (97%) against UVB.  The FDA no longer allows manufacturers to market the fact that they have greater than SPF 30 since there is no evidence of added
protection.
 
SKIN FIRMNESS
FACTS
 
As you age, elastin – a   protein found in the skin that allows it to retract or re-drape – breaks down, causing sagging.  For firmer skin, choose products that contain zinc, which is the only ingredient thought to help decrease sagging.  Tzone Mineral Foundation and Tzone Superfirming Creme are ideal for helping sagging skin.  In addition to anti-aging regimes like Tzone (and Tzone's 30% monthly glycolic chemical peel program), good nutrition, water consumption, sunscreen, exercise and adequate rest are all needed to maintain healthy skin.
 
 
  HYDROQUINONE &   SUNSCREEN FACTS
 
SUNSCREEN.  Diligent use of a sunscreen alone allows some repair as well as protection from further photodamage (Source:  The British Journal of Dermatology, December 1996, pages 867-875).  No other aspect of controlling or reducing skin discolorations is as important as the use of sunscreen, SPF 15 or greater with the UVA-protecting ingredients of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or avobenzone.  Using skin-lightening products without sunscreen is a waste of time.  Sun exposure is one of the primary causes of hypermelanin production.  Before you look at any other treatment for discolorations this is the first and most practical step.
 
HYDROQUINONE.    Over-the-counter skin-lightening products often contain 2% hydroquinone; while 4% concentrations are available only from a physician (Tzone Lightening Creme contains 2% hydroquinone).  Hydroquinone is a strong inhibitor of melanin production (Source:  Journal of Dermatological Science, August, 2001, Supplemental pages 68-75), meaning that it lightens skin color.  Hydroquinone does not bleach the skin (calling it a bleaching agent is a misnomer); it only disrupts the synthesis of melanin hyperpigmentation.
 
In medical literature Hydroquinone is considered the primary topical ingredient for inhibiting melanin production.  Using it in combination with other options, like Retin-A and AHA (alpha-hydroxy acids), can make a difference in skin discolorations (Source:  Journal of Cosmetic Science, May-June 1998, pages 208-209; Dermatological Surgery, May 1996, pages 443-447).
 
Some concerns about hydroquinoneÂ’s safety on skin have been expressed, but the research indicates reactions are minor or a result of using extremely high concentrations (Source:  Critical Reviews in Toxicology, May 1999, pages 283-330).
According to Howard I. Malbach, M.D., professor of dermatology at the University of California School of Medicine, San Francisco, “Overall, adverse events reported with the use of hydroquinone…have been relatively few and minor in nature.  To date there is no evidence of adverse systemic reactions following the use of hydroquinone” and it has been around for over 30 years in skin-care products.  Maibach has also stated that “hydro-quinone is undoubted-ly the most active and safest skin-depigment-ing substance…” as found in Tzone’s Advanced Lightening Creme.  Research supporting Maibach’s contentions was published in the Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, 1998.
 
COMBINATION TREATMENTS.
Diligent use of a sunscreen with the UVA-protecting ingredients of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or avobenzone, such as Tzone’s Waterproof SPF 30, is the first line of defense when tackling skin discolorations.  Many researchers feel that 2% to 4% hydroquinone lotions can be more effective when combined with Retin-A or Renova and AHAs such as Tzone’s Glycolic Gel and Active-A Retinol.   High strengths of hydroquinone (more than 2%) are available only from a physician and can possibly help deeper sources of pigment discoloration, although they can be a problem for darker skin tones.  It is also extremely helpful to consider chemical peels (like
 
Tzone’s 30% lifetime complimentary monthly glycolic peels) to remove or lighten skin discolorations and then use topicals to maintain the improvement (Source:  Cosmetic Dermatology, August 2001, pages 13-16).
 
 
NANOTECHNOLOGY
FACTS
 
The big buzzword on everyone’s lips is“nanotechnology,” a technology that strives for precision at the level of about one nanometer (one billionth of a meter).  How does this technology benefit the beauty industry?  These itsy-bitsy molecules are easily absorbed by the hair and skin, and often take on more active qualities when reduced to this size.  Additionally, nanoparticles are invisible to the naked eye.  Consider what nanotechnology has done for sunblock:  Old-fashioned formulas containing titanium dioxide and zinc oxide left the skin covered with a white, greasy film.  Today, these important sunblock ingredients are reduced to nanocrystals that spread more easily, are nongreasy, invisible and still as effective as old-fashioned formulations.  The same technology can be applied to foundation where seeing less of the product is more desirable.